I sailed with my kids on Allure of the Seas after its £75m renovation – this is what I thought

After a major glow-up, Allure of the Seas is impressively equipped for families – Felicity Byrnes and her children put it to the test

Aug 7, 2026 - 11:15

0 5

I sailed with my kids on Allure of the Seas after its £75m renovation – this is what I thought

As our jaunty little gelato-hued train of Vespa sidecars pulls centrifugally into the whirlpool of a Rome roundabout, I’m trying to yell something to my driver Matteo. It might be “Aiuto!” (‘help’ in Italian) or more likely, “I think that bus is about to hit my daughter!” as her canary yellow sidecar nimbly swerves across lanes like Valentino Rossi.

But my brain’s short-circuiting like an overstimulated octopus pulling multiple levers. With a quick flick of the throttle, we catapult out of the chaos, adrenaline glands shot, slightly traumatised, but gleefully hurtling towards the next adventure.

This sums up our week on one of the world’s largest cruise ships, Royal Caribbean Allure of the Seas, which we boarded after its $100m (£75m) glow-up, completed last summer. This Roman adventure isn’t the first time I lose my words (or partially, my mind) while herding my up-for-all-action nine- and 10-year-olds, and we’re experiencing many firsts.

For starters, this is a cruising with children debut (and I’m solo with my husband away). It’s immediately clear this will be big – literally – upon sighting the ship bobbing like a gently tipped-over skyscraper in Barcelona’s port. It’s a slightly intimidating 18 decks of fun ahoy.

Felicity Byrnes and her family were blown away by Rome on a recent cruise with Royal Caribbean on Allure of the Seas

Felicity Byrnes and her family were blown away by Rome on a recent cruise with Royal Caribbean on Allure of the Seas (Felicity Byrnes)

Some elements of the ship have dodged the designer’s new dabs, like our perfectly comfortable ‘Boardwalk Balcony’ stateroom. Instead, funds have been funnelled into the new Caribbean-festive pool deck with Perfect Storm triple waterslides, kid-tastic Splashaway Bay water play area, the serpent-headed Ultimate Abyss slide spewing riders out 10 storeys below, and new restaurants and bars garnishing the 25 options. The extra-charge southern-style The Mason Jar becomes a favourite, as does the El Loco Mexican diner, which is included in the cruise fare.

Taking our ship research seriously, we undertake Homer-esque odysseys, journeying through the 1,187-feet-long ship. We leave no deck unexplored (the always-empty Level 16 bridge wings extending over the ocean are suitably terrifying), and no ice-cream unlicked (including from the free ice-cream poolside dispenser). The 12,000 plants are appreciated, and we marvel at the acrobatic Aqua80 Too high 1980s-themed diving show twice (and Mama Mia once). Finally (pause to breathe), we discover it’s physically possible to rock climb, ice skate and become a mini golfing champion all in one afternoon.

The least favoured experience is the sea day. Children aren’t permitted on the more intense rides, such as The Ultimate Abyss (which I appreciate), without adult consent every time they slide, but it means I’m often umbilically tethered to wherever they want to be. Which is everywhere.

The Ultimate Abyss, the tallest slide at sea, hurtles sliders up to 14.5km per hour down 45 metres of twisting tubes

The Ultimate Abyss, the tallest slide at sea, hurtles sliders up to 14.5km per hour down 45 metres of twisting tubes (Felicity Byrnes)

And so we manically flit from waterslides to FlowRider back to eateries. I’m trailing two steps behind juggling wet towels, retrieving dripping sneakers, finding seats, and joining in being sucked down waterslides, legs akimbo. Plus dodging the heap of humanity (there’s 5,962 people on board), oblivious to the mental challenge of shepherding a dynamite duo.

I learn hard and fast lessons about ship management, like dining early to avoid choke points. Also, embrace the new-look Adventure Ocean kids club (my duo’s most-raved-about ship feature). I employ that hour post-dinner to decompress, horizontal on the bed, staring mutely at the ceiling.

We’re having so much fun (genuinely), it’s barely survivable. Action of the Seas (as I’ve renamed it) and any large ship cruising can be intense, and the promise of core family memories on the horizon. No pressure.

In off-peak October, the tiny Cinque Terre towns, such as Vernazza, have less crowds than in summer

In off-peak October, the tiny Cinque Terre towns, such as Vernazza, have less crowds than in summer (Felicity Byrnes)

Let’s not forget, the ship also goes places, visiting a rollcall of Spanish, French and Italian ports. The self-booked Vespa Sidecar Tour is solid family gold. Rome wasn’t built (or meant to be seen) in a day. But with the sidecars we wheel-y cover some ground, relieved of all responsibility except waving. We hadn’t anticipated our squad of pistachio, peach and pomodoro red bikes would receive such attention, zooming between more deserving headlining sites like the Pantheon (including tickets, so no wait for us) and the Trevi Fountain.

Crowds part, cameras click, strangers gape, then smile like we’re bona fide celebrities. Meanwhile, our gentle-as-lambs, expert drivers keep the three-hour tour trundling at perfect pre-tween pace.

The most thrilling manoeuvre is peeling off early like Top Gun fighters from our squadron at a pre-arranged time, shipbound. When I say we’re feeling part of the pulsing blood flow of this gritty, ancient city, it’s with every sense engaged, elbow to car windows, whizzing over cobblestone streets, through unnamed piazzas, sudden part players in this beguiling, cinematic city. It’s beyond exhilarating, a fizzing glass of soul juice.

Yet it’s in Naples that the magic of nibbling at a sushi train of countries (unpacking just once) is revealed. Having darted around the Monopoly board of excavated houses at Herculaneum, my youngest proudly presents me with a small, imperfect, but priceless (in my eyes) picture of an octopus. “Look, mum, it’s the octopus from Herculaneum!” And my work here is done.

Felicity’s children on their Vespa tour in Rome

Felicity’s children on their Vespa tour in Rome (Felicity Byrnes)

Because it is the octopus from the perfectly preserved thermal baths floor, the 2,000-year-old cephalopod quietly having wrapped its tentacles around her imagination.

I took this cruise hoping for a moment just like this. Somewhere among squeal-producing fodder, the liquid light of learning is pouring in, simply from cultural exposure. And Herculaneum, a more compact Pompeii, is didactic travel at its best, the ultimate gift I can give my children.

The maraschino cherry on the adventure is arriving via a gritty, graffiti-covered Napoli train costing just €12, significantly less than the €180 quoted by a tour company. We high-five with a sense of achievement, loving our dip into local life.

Conversations about cruise antics and tales dominate the dinner table for months – the sign of a holiday worth repeating. Family legends are our Mediterranean souvenirs, with minds expanded and quality time and cuddles part of the memories that stick. Our first cruise might not be our last – just find me someone to hold the towels.

Felicity Byrnes and her family were guests of Royal Caribbean on Allure of the Seas.

How to do it

Allure of the Seas will be enjoying a Caribbean sojourn, while sibling Harmony of the Seas is sailing the Mediterranean (Barcelona-Palma-La Spezia-Rome-Naples-Barcelona) fresh from a similar amplification completed in May. Rates from £945 per person for an interior state room (two adults sharing).