I’ve travelled alone for two decades – these are my favourite cities for solo breaks over 40

I always have been and always will be a backpacker at heart. Not because I like to bed down in dormitories or travel on the cheap, but because I adore the feeling of hopping on a bus in the middle of nowhere, unsure of where I’ll end up at the end of the day. I don’t mind just my belongings for company; the thrill of adventure is what I seek.

Over the course of my 21 years of solo travel, the unknown has never failed to excite me. It’s taken me from coastal Colombia – seeking out captivating festivals – to little-visited ancient temples across India and to architectural marvels in Spain, Georgia and beyond.

Yet, having recently turned 40, there are a few ways that my travel habits have changed. I’ve never been a fan of jungle raves or places where backpackers tend to congregate en masse, but as I’ve gotten older, packed bars and the party scene are even less appealing. I prefer hours spent at temples and art galleries, or just sitting and observing daily life as it happens.

I still love to travel by public transport, often zig-zagging my way through Sri Lanka (where I now live) alone, but overnight journeys no longer float my boat; I’d rather arrive somewhere feeling fresh and full of energy than groggy and drained.

I’ve also swapped hostels for art-filled Airbnbs and luxury boutique hotels in recent years – since I like to prioritise spaces that fill me with joy, rather than simply a bed for the night.

And when it comes to city breaks, I try to visit places that are either completely off the radar, or metropolises that I can enjoy now that I have a bit more spending power behind me, and didn’t visit as a backpacker.

My absolute favourite spots for solo travel over 40 blend rich history, a gritty edge, flawless bedrooms and brilliant cuisine. Here are the six best to visit this year.

Read more: Female solo travel is mainstream – here’s why solitary travel takes more nerve

Antigua, Guatemala

Best for: Handicrafts, hiking and history.

Guatemala was my first great leap into solo travel 21 years ago, and I’ve been spellbound ever since. Looking back, it was perhaps a bizarre choice for a 19-year-old who’d never left Europe, let alone travelled solo before. Yet that’s exactly why I picked the Central American country – I didn’t know anyone who’d been to Guatemala before.

Drawn to eye-catching colours, I found them in abundance in Antigua’s faded colonial facades, purple jacaranda blossoms and the richly woven Mayan textiles draped across market stalls. Yet as a youngster, I couldn’t fully appreciate the city’s intricacies or afford to stay in some of the exquisite homes, transformed into boutique hotels.

Today, Antigua retains its magical charm and appeals to more mature travellers who will appreciate its emerging food scene, stores such as Nim Po’t – selling handwoven textiles – and the nature-filled hikes to nearby active volcanoes. Some of my favourite places to eat and drink include Rincón Tipico (near Antigua's Central Park) for authentic Guatemalan food, and Frida’s for tasty tacos on the iconic Calle del Arco.

Where to stay

There are so many glorious hotels and homestays in Antigua, one of which is Villas de la Ermita, which has spacious rooms and a pretty central courtyard, and is ideally located for seeing all the main sights of the city.

Price: From £61 per night

Florence, Italy

Best for: Whimsical street scenes and dining out.

Oysters and sparkling Tuscan wine at Mercato Centrale. Perfect pizza and decadent pasta on rotation at local trattorias. Is it any wonder I fell head over heels for Italy’s most alluring city? Yes, it overflows with tourists, and it can get pricey, but having spent five nights in the city solo one September, I quickly realised it’s the ideal break for travellers who adore great food and can splash out.

I spent my days admiring the city’s alluring architecture, photographing the cinematic Basilica di Santa Maria del Fiore (one of the world’s largest churches), and eating gelato. Nothing groundbreaking, no deep explorations, just living my best life, hunting out great meals.

My restaurant recommendations include tourist hotspot Trattoria Za’Za’ in the Central Market Square, where all ingredients are sourced from the local San Lorenzo Central Market, and Bistecca alla Fiorentina is the dish of the day. At low-key Antica Trattoria da Tito dal 1913 in the San Marco quarter, I enjoyed Tortelli Mugellani con ragu (a traditional pasta dish from the Mugello valley in Tuscany), followed by homemade tiramisu.

Where to stay

As hotels in Florence are notoriously expensive and simple in decor, I’d recommend an Airbnb for a more unique and affordable alternative. Located about a 15-minute walk from the city centre, this quaint apartment in a grand residential building was ideal for me since it was safe, cosy and close to another favourite restaurant, Perseus. Don’t miss it.

Price: from £145 per night

Bangkok, Thailand

Best for: Temples, night markets and boutique bedrooms.

Having travelled to the Thai capital both as a young backpacker and a 40-year-old solo traveller, I definitely enjoyed it more in my later years. I visited fancier restaurants such as Nusara with its fabulous views over Wat Pho, and stayed in more refined places that offer a different perspective of Bangkok.

Of course, I still wanted to hop on the back of a moto-taxi booked through the Grab app, and to head to some of the city’s most amazing night markets including Talat Phlu, where all kinds of delights such as crispy pork and rice, melt-in-the-mouth noodles and moreish desserts await.

In the past year, I’ve spent close to two weeks in Bangkok over two separate trips, and each time I leave wanting more. There’s always a new and exciting gallery to visit, like the recently unveiled Dib Bangkok; an impressive temple I’ve yet to visit; or an intriguing neighbourhood that I’m desperate to return to.

For solo travellers in their 40s, like myself, I’d recommend dedicating a good amount of time to the Bangkok Yai and Talat Noi areas of town, where hidden temples, amazing local food stands, speciality coffee shops, and structures like the 200-year-old So Heng Tai Mansion will keep your eyes, ears and stomach satisfied for hours on end.

Where to stay

Having stayed in seven hotels and homestays in the Thai capital, my firm favourite is Siri Sala, a Thai villa rising from the banks of the Bangkok Noi canal. Previously only available as an entire buyout, solo travellers can now make a base in the home that was featured in season three of The White Lotus.

It’s well worth a sleepover for a special occasion, since all home-cooked meals, daily massage, airport transfers, cocktail hour, cultural excursions and workshops are included in the price.

Price: From £535 per night

Read more: The best luxury Bangkok hotels, from rooftop infinity pools to Michelin-starred dining

Pamplona, Spain

Best for: Hemingway fans and flâneurs.

Anyone familiar with Ernest Hemingway will know that Pamplona is where the novelist loved to spend time during his years in Spain – and it’s easy to see why. Far less crowded than other standout Spanish cities, such as Madrid, Barcelona and Seville, Pamplona has a more subtle charm, allowing simply wandering and soaking in the scene to be the main draw. That’s the thing about being older; strolling through a city with no plans provokes as much joy as the tightly packed itineraries of my twenties.

During my last solo break to Spain, I followed in the footsteps of Hemingway, visiting places he liked to hang out – spots such as Cafe Iruña, where I took a selfie with a statue version of the man himself, propping up the bar, as always.

Then after strolling dark streets, I found myself sitting at the bar of Bodegon Sarria, enjoying plate after plate of pintxo – small snacks of addictive iberico, fried prawns and aged Spanish cheese – washed down with full-bodied red wine.

The next day, I ditched Hemingway’s haunts and traced part of the Camino de Santiago, the famed pilgrimage route that snakes from Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port in France right down to Spain’s Santiago de Compostela, and watched locals chit-chat in the city’s main square, Plaza del Castillo.

Where to stay

The Pamplona Catedral Hotel has reasonable room rates, as long as you’re not travelling during mid-July, when prices rocket on account of the festival of San Fermín, taking place within the city limits. The hotel is within easy walking distance of all the main sights. Expect attentive staff and simple but spotless bedrooms.

Price: From £65 per night

Quito, Ecuador

Best for: Museums, galleries and one-off hotels.

I wouldn’t recommend Quito to first-time solo travellers, regardless of age, since it’s a city that requires you to keep your wits about you (pickpocketing and muggings are not uncommon), but for experienced travellers, it’s quite the destination. Surrounded by soaring peaks, a swirling mist sweeps in most days, winding by modest homes painted in all shades of the rainbow, which in turn creates photogenic moments that are hard to find elsewhere in the world.

It’s worth lingering for up to five days rather than the one night many travellers decide to stay as a stopover on the way to somewhere else. Aside from ageing cinemas, such as Bolivar Theatre in the historic centre, where I took an informative guided tour, and the city’s bustling fruit and vegetable markets selling everything from tomatillos to purple corn, there’s an array of brilliant creative spaces to visit. Casa del Alabado is a must-visit, holding over 5,000 historic Ecuadorian artefacts. As is Museo Camilo Egas, a small gallery celebrating the works of one of Ecuador’s most underrated artists.

Charmingly, the whole old town area appears to be scented with burning Palo Santo, a fragrant wood believed to cleanse the air.

Where to stay

I split my time between Casa Gangotena, a grand structure watching over Old Town Quito’s main square, and the newly opened Casa Santa Clara, which has just five suites that are flawlessly executed, and will appeal to solo travellers who love art.

Price: From £369

Price: From £210 per night

Yerevan, Armenia

Best for: Soviet-era architecture and mountain views.

I knew I’d love Yerevan before I arrived. And I was right. As one of the oldest continually inhabited cities on the globe, it’s a world away from some of the shiny, homogenised ones closer to home. Armenia’s capital sits under the watchful gaze of snow-capped Mount Ararat, overflowing with history at every turn.

To get the best views of Mount Ararat, which appears to magically float above the horizon on clear days, I climbed the 572 steps to the top of the Cascade Complex. In the gardens here I sought out “Mother Armenia”, a 22 metre hammered copper female personification of the country.

Along with these monuments and relics, I found Soviet-era architecture all over town, from the post-war geometrical bus station with its sharp angles to the Tsitsernakaberd memorial dedicated to the victims of the Armenian genocide.

In terms of food and drink, Yerevan’s restaurants and bars welcome solo-ers with potent drinks, including mulberry vodka, and hearty dishes that will never break the bank. Don’t miss Tun Lahmajo for a kind of Armenian pizza, and Dolmama for an array of typical Armenian dishes – both located in the heart of the city.

Where to stay

This wacky and well-located Airbnb was where I opted to stay during my three nights in Yerevan. Filled with kitsch prints and coloured glassware, it also offers a small terrace and is within walking distance to all of the city’s main sights.

Price: From £60 per night

Read more: This beautiful former USSR city is opening up to tourists