I stayed in a luxury Japanese ryokan and it was the perfect antidote to a busy city break

A train ride away from Japan’s tourist hotspots, Nishimuraya Hotel Shogetsutei is a quiet, secluded paradise, finds Marc Mayo

Jun 17, 2026 - 19:15

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I stayed in a luxury Japanese ryokan and it was the perfect antidote to a busy city break

Far from the hustle and bustle of city life, Nishimuraya Hotel Shogetsutei is a supremely relaxing ryokan stay with a modern twist

Location

Nishimuraya Hotel Shogetsutei is situated in Kinosaki Onsen, which is just under two-and-a-half hours from Kyoto by train, and three hours from Osaka near Honshu’s central coastline. Between the station and the hotel is a high street filled with independent coffee shops and boutiques, along with a ropeway up to Mount Daishi for a superb view across the town and river estuary. Takeno, one of Japan’s most beautiful stretches of beach, is just a 15-minute drive away.

The vibe

Nishimuraya Hotel Shogetsute offers a peaceful retreat after being enveloped in the country’s majestic, but sometimes overwhelming, urban sprawls.

There is also more than a hint of luxury in the sheer spaciousness of this ryokan, or traditional Japanese inn. It never feels crowded or like other guests are trying to enjoy their stay on top of you. Restaurants are tucked away in quiet areas, and the rooms, which are set out across seven floors, are peaceful.

Take a lazy stroll down into Kinosaki Onsen for boutique shops and cafes

Take a lazy stroll down into Kinosaki Onsen for boutique shops and cafes (Marc Mayo)

The hotel lays out traditional Japanese yukata robes in your room to wear to the onsen, to Ricca, its western-fusion restaurant and around the town.

Service

Check in is calm and efficient thanks to the courteous and attentive reception team. They booked us into a private onsen session and explained it in full, which was important as the rules can seem daunting, especially for those who have seen the many social media posts about potential pitfalls.

A free shuttle bus picked us up from the railway station and could also ferry us up and down the high street at our whim.

Bed and bath

A traditional Japanese ryokan room

A traditional Japanese ryokan room (Nishimuraya Hotel Shogetsutei)

Many of the 98 rooms are traditional, with floors lined with tatami mats. Guests can settle into zaisu floor chairs, which are deceptively comfortable. The rooms are exquisitely neat and are turned over by staff during meal times so that futon beds are set up for the night.

Toiletries and a bag for carrying your goods around the onsen are provided in the bathroom, which also feature an ofuro-style deep bathtub, plus a shower.

Upgrades are available for a Keigetsu suite, featuring its own open-air hot spring bath, or guests can opt for a western-style room with bigger, fluffier double beds and a walk-in shower.

Food and drink

Ricca restaurant serves Japanese-western fusion dishes

Ricca restaurant serves Japanese-western fusion dishes (Nishimuraya Hotel Shogetsutei)

The Kaiseki tasting menu offers diners their own private room for an adventurous ride through 10 courses, featuring abalone, sashimi and wagyu beef. The grilled spring sea bream was a highlight. Staff can cater the menu to dietary requirements on request.

Ricca, which sits above the outdoor pool and forest gardens offers Japanese takes on western food. Dishes featuring tajima beef and firefly squid pasta put culinary innovation and local produce in the spotlight.

The breakfast buffet continues on this theme but caters to more typical western tastes. Alongside the Japanese options of pickled vegetables and omelettes are cereals, cheeses and meats both hot and cold.

The bar near the ground floor lobby area is a lovely place to be, looking out over a rock garden and serving a variety of wines, teas and beer. For those looking to go deeper into the night, the karaoke bar is always in full swing, even on a Monday night.

Facilities

The onsen is the hotel’s standout facility with both public and private baths available. Sipping a glass of champagne while listening to the trickle of the hot spring water in your own private spa is an unbeatable way to start a day, although I also found the public spa to be superbly quiet and peaceful.

A stay in the hotel also grants you access to any of the seven other onsens in the town, which each hold their own quirks and history.

The private Japanese onsen is the hotel’s trump card

The private Japanese onsen is the hotel’s trump card (Marc Mayo)

Aroma treatment massages, including facials and hot stone therapy, are also available and a large outdoor swimming pool is open in the summer months, backing onto the forest garden. The lobby shop provides snacks a few leagues above your standard 7-Eleven options.

Accessibility

The Universal Twin room (non-smoking) is adapted for wheelchair-users but the spa facilities are not accessible.

Pet policy

Pets are not allowed inside or on the property, but small or medium-sized dogs can be booked into the adjacent pet house facility – though guests are still responsible for walking and feeding them.

Check-in/check-out

Check-in starts at 3pm, though luggage is accepted from guests arriving earlier. Check-out is 10am.

Family-friendly?

Access to facilities such as the onsen is not age-restricted, though children must be accompanied by an adult. The hotel recommends the Japanese-style rooms for families as more futon beds can be added.

Nishimuraya Hotel Shogetsutei is the perfect place to relax